So Maguire got tired
Of the no-target gun fired
And returned to his headland of carrots and cabbage
To the fields once again
Where eunuchs can be men
And life is more lousy than savage.

The Great Hunger Patrick Kavanagh

I used to hate slaw … with a passion. I would avoid anything that had been within 2 foot of a tub of slaw. I think its understandable, having been raised in a culture where slaw meant some paltry white cabbage camouflaged in a mountain of minging mayo. Because, that’s the other thing, I hate the bulk properties of mayo, the way it wobbles, jiggles, sticks and slides.

But slaw is different now. Now its a delicious crispy side salad, with tonnes of great cabbages and a light unobtrusive sauce which complements, rather than conceals the flavours of its passengers. In this version horseradish brings the heat in the sauce - serve with any kind of burger, or robust fleshy fish (e.g. mackerel/sardine).

4 cups red cabbage finely chopped
2 cup green (York) cabbage finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped dill
Green of 4 scallions finely chopped
2 medium carrots juileinned
2 tablespoons horseradish sauce

• Mix all ingredients in a bowl
• Done